Ten Bistro: A certified "destination restaurant"
A 'destination restaurant' is defined as "one with a chef or cuisine so exceptional patrons are willing to travel to a locale to experience it"..."where the food and service combine to make an exceptional dining adventure"...and, "because of the complexity of the food and the well-trained staff, prices may be higher than usual." With that criteria in mind, I may say, without a doubt, that "ten bistro" is a certified destination restaurant.
Located off the lobby of the elegant Hotel Deville, this fine restaurant is clearly one of Panamá City's culinary treasures. Chef Fabien Migny's signature is clearly on display in both the haute cuisine served by an attentive and well-trained staff and the sleek, elegantly understated decor of the dining room.
While the extremely eclectic menu selections were tempting, my party surrendered itself to Chef Migny's suggestions. We started with an incredibly light, yet deeply flavored Cream of Lentil Soup infused with shrimp and slices of a wonderfully smoky French sausage ($8.50). Appetizers consisted of Calamar Asado, carmelized rings of calamari stuffed with a rich dressing ($8.50); Pan Grilled Scallops ($9.50) served with herbed butter, garlic confit and dusted with parmesan, and Tuna Sashimi ($8.50) in a jellied salsa. All were exceptional in both flavor and presentation, especially the scallops...very succulent, their flavor delightfully enhanced by the delicate application of the other ingredients . If these dishes were anything to judge the remainder of the meal by, we were in for a very special meal.
And we were.
My party of four shared Grouper Filet ($10), a large fish filet, poached in coconut milk and served with a light curry foam and steamed julienne vegetables. The lightest hint of curry mingled with the coconut milk flavor and produced a reduced sauce that was a perfect compliment to the delicate, flaky fish. It was an exotic and highly successful mingling of flavors. Next was a Grilled New York Steak ($22), served with a basalmic vinegar reduction, sauteed asparagus, camelized onions and mushrooms. The meat had a strong "steak flavor", indicating a prime cut and was perfectly grilled. The vegetables were delicious and mingled well with the flavor of the basalmic vinegar.
The Grilled Ribeye Steak ($25) was large, perfectly prepared and juicy. While the menu stated it came with a Béarnaise sauce, it was overlooked by the kitchen staff. Without a doubt this oversight would have been instantly corrected, but the meat really didn't need any embellishment. It was perfect. The crisp potato construction, however, that topped the slices of meat, while decorative, was a bit overcooked and difficult to cut. Less frying time would easily correct that.
The final dish, Rack of Lamb ($29) was a classic example of saving the best for last. I had dispaired of ever seeing lamb on a menu here and was delighted by the extremely high quality served at "ten bistro". Delicate, flavorful, extraordinary...all of these words fit. Served with a mustard sauce, sauteed watercress, bacon and sliced baby potatoes, it easily won the title "best dish of the evening" by acclamation.
Of course, it didn't end there. A page of tempting desserts awaited our selection. The most unusual was Chocolate Fondant with Raspberry and Basil Ice Cream ($6.50). No, that is not a typo...it was basil flavored ice cream. And surprisingly it was very good. The menu said it was a 'sorbet', but the texture was definitely creamy and the flavor pronounced, unlike a delicate ice. The Apple Tartlette with Almond Cream ($6.50) was delicate, the pastry crust flaky, and none of it too sweet.
The Strawberry Tart ($6.50) consisted of sweetened fruit nestled in a cream cheese filling and thin pastry crust. Good, but not outstanding. Finally, the Nougat Glacer ($6.50), a pyramid of rich nougat surrounded by a pond of rich strawberry sauce, was served and enjoyed.
I have but one complaint, one shared by all of my party; the noise level. ten bistro's sleek, modern decor comes with a price....hard surfaces that reflect rather than absorb noise. There were times it was easier to hear the conversation at an adjacent table rather than my own. The more difficult it is to hear, the louder ones voice becomes. By the end of the evening, the packed dining room sounded like a refined shouting match. Something needs to be done to correct this as Ten Bistro and its delightful cuisine, like a fine jewel, deserves only the finest of settings. For that reason only, it wasn't awarded the final half-star.
Ten Bistro
Calle Beatriz Miranda Cabal
Hotel Deville Frente a Towerbank
Tel.:213-8250
