• Christ Church by the Sea

Colon's Historic Church and
the St.Patrick Connection


By Howard V. Walker

How many churches have been built by a railroad company. Not too many, I suspect. Panama's notable example is in Colon, at the Canal's Atlantic terminus. Appropriately named Christ Church by the Sea, it is at water's edge, an aging spectator to the ever-changing panorama of cargo-loaded, ocean-bound vessels en route to and from Gatun's busy locks.

The life and times of this 19th.century stone structure, in adapted Victorian Gothic style, are firmly cemented into the history of Panama. Particularly into those decades of the mid eighteen hundreds when American entrepreneurial "robber barons" were aggressive competitors in the shipping trade to Panama. William H. Aspinwall, one of the builders of Christ Church, Iglesia Episcopal de Cristo, was a prominent member of this group. Ranked among the richest men of his time,and aware of the need for a trans-isthmian transit route, together with partners Chauncey and Stephens, he formed the Panama Railroad Company. The track was completed in 1855. The timing was perfect, and the Company profited mightily from the Californian gold rush whose fortune seekers eagerly sought this quick and safe way west from the eastern American states. (Not surprising, considering that the overland cross-continent journey in those early days of America's growth took 4 to 6 months by wagon. A hazardous trip, it is estimated that only 10% of adventurers reached the other side).

It is recorded that Aspinwall was a pious man as well as a successful financier, hence his desire to build a church in the city originally named after him. He certainly would have had no difficulty in selecting an architect. His son-in-law was famed designer James Renwick, married to his daughter Anna Lloyd Aspinwall.

Architect Renwick's career began at the top. Born into America's social and cultural upper class, when just 24 years old he won the commission for New York's Grace United Church. A huge achievement for those days, it was destined to be ecclipsed 15 years later by his selection as architect for the now internationally acclaimed St. Patrick's cathedral on New York's 5th.Avenue. While there does not appear to be certifiable accreditation, it seems quite reasonable to assume that Renwick had his hand in the design of Colon's church, one so closely connected with his family. Dating from 1862, it displays some of the stylistic virtuosity and courage to experiment for which he was noted, for instance in the "modern" treatment of its Gothic features.

Thanks to the stone construction, Christ Church was one of the few buildings to survive the disastrous fire of 1885 which tore through the city, leaving only ashes in place of the poorly built wooden dwellings in its wake. Today, its parishioners are still mostly of West Indian origin, descendants of the 19th century inhabitants of those buildings, workers who strove industriously to build the railroad and subsequent canals.

Designated as a national monument by INAC, Panama's National Institute of Culture, Christ Church by the Sea is in desperate need of repair and restoration.

Unfortunately, the honor of designation does not bring with it the financial assistance necessary for the church's continuing existence. For that to be assured, business and private individuals must again play their part, as they did at the church's birth dedicated to the Lord's glory and in service to His people. Action is required now to ensure that the 150th anniversary in a few short years can be celebrated in a manner worthy of the unique position it holds in Panama's cultural and architectural legacy.

Worship services are in English and Spanish.

The writer is an English-Canadian, an architect retired from practice in Canada and now living in Panama.


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