Tucked away behind a Mexican restaurant and a popular gym lies one of the newest and most popular new additions to Panama's increasingly international dining scene, Astrid & Gaston. The newest in a chain of upscale Peruvian-fusion restaurants, Astrid & Gaston has rapidly become a "must try" with trendy Panamanian foodies always on the lookout for the newest and best, and in this respect, the restaurant does not disappoint.
The interior space is sleek and modern, with several dining areas to choose from, all dominated by a huge glassed-in kitchen filled with stainless steel, bright lights and a huge kitchen staff. While the view of the busy kitchen is interesting for awhile, in the long run I found it to be disconcerting, much the same as a silent television screen is a hindrance to table conversation, and was put off by the brightness of the harsh kitchen lighting that floods the dining areas. If food and good conversation are your primary dining interests, asked to be seated away from the kitchen.
The selection of appetizers is both eclectic and focused, featuring old Peruvian favorites served with a modern twist, while still retaining the authenticity of the original. If in doubt as to what to begin with, consider the Piqueo Crillo ($19 for 2), a large tray filled with a variety of delicious items such as yucca croquettes, artichokes, deliciously crisp deep fried pork rinds, and stuffed potato bites. An excellent choice that provides a varied medley of textures and flavors . Ceviche Clasico ($10) featured tender, melt-in-your-mouth bites of fish, large, slightly crunchy corn kernels and a marinade that adds just a bite of spice without being overwhelming. Ceviche, while simple in concept, can often be a hit and miss affair as its execution depends entirely on balanced flavors and fresh ingredients. This ceviche was perfect in all respects. The same can be said for the Ensalada de Langostinos ($14). Fresh ingredients plus a finely balanced recipe produced a clean wash of Romaine tossed in a tangy dressing and accentuated with firm, flavorful shrimp. Highly recommended.
One of the more unusual appetizer offerings proved just too tempting to pass up. Foie Gras Actual ($35) featured that namesake delicacy served atop three miniature corn cakes with "chalaca & purple corn vinaigrette". I'm not entirely convinced that a rich concoction such as foie gras needs enhancement from an ingredient as flavorful as a vinaigrette, but the chef managed to pull it off. The combined flavors were subtle yet interesting and palate pleasing.
Appetizers having been appreciated and noted, we moved on to the main courses.
Sudado de Pargo ($19) featured a generous portion of snapper prepared with a sauce consisting of onion, tomato, pepper, cilantro and yucca. While mild in overall flavor, the combination of ingredients was well balanced and extremely enjoyable. The fish was flaky to the point of near disintegration and its subtle flavor greatly enhanced by skillful preparation and seasoning. Raviolis ($16) featured freshly made pasta pillows stuffed with crab meat in a richly decadent chupe sauce. Again, the ingredients were nicely balanced so that individual flavors were allowed to shine to create an overall appealing dish. This is a fish lovers favorite and one I look forward to trying again.
Seco de Cola de Resactualizado ($25) was your basic oxtail stew overly re-imagined with a cilantro-based sauce, carrot confit, pea emulsion on beans and featuring a rice tacu-tacu. While the flavor was quite good, it lacked the basic richness one associates with an ordinary oxtail soup sans the various fusion ingredients and I was left with a feeling that the chef was straining too far afield in order to make an ordinary dish into a signature one. Very good, but overly constructed.
Because many dining parties usually contain a "meat and potato" member, I ordered the Rib Eye A La Criolla ($33). Perfectly grilled to order, it was served over a potato & pepper pie covered with a Creole sauté of mushrooms and egg. A hint of Peruvian, a touch Nouvelle, a dash fusion and you have a unique combination of flavors that would make any carnivore more than happy.
Desserts are uniformly delicious and I highly recommend the Total ($14), featuring miniature samples of the main pastries offered. This is a table pleasing presentation that provides you with a gratifying sample of the pasty chef's bountiful skills.
Service, for the most part, is impeccable, the wine list extensive and the overall ambience quite enjoyable. Local residents are anxious to discover and reward fine dining establishments and Astrid and Gaston is certainly that. A truly enjoyable evening.
